What exactly is the alpine descent or désalpe / alpabzug? This article explores the event’s history and where to see it.
In Switzerland, we know the clock will soon strike autumn when processions of cows crowned with flowers and hung with huge clanging bells, descend from summer alpine pastures to their winter barns before the snows come. Led by cowherds and children dressed in embroidered traditional jackets and dresses, the colorfully bedecked dairy cows come by mountain trails to village streets, where people greet the colorful parades.
Désalpes Crans Montana
This end-of-summer tradition, known as the Désalpes in French, or Alpabzug in Swiss-German, has been taking place in Switzerland and other European countries since about 3000 BCE.
It’s a festive time now, but wasn’t always. Turf wars over alpine grazing rights even tested the mettle of the young Swiss confederation at the battle of Morgarten in 1315. After a dispute over access to pastures, citizens from the canton of Schwyz raided the Habsburg-protected Einsiedeln Abbey. The Austrian Habsburgs invaded, having already had their eye on the nearby Gotthard Pass, the shortest route to Italy. The Swiss soldiers defeated the Austrians, earning the gratitude of generations of Swiss dairy cows.
Today, festivities include more than pretty cows on parade. In some villages, visitors will hear alpenhorns and yodeling, and see traditional dancing, flag-throwing and men marching in unison to the tune of the cowbells around their necks. Regional crafts and foods are also offered, including, of course, cheeses made possible by those beautiful bovine ladies passing by that day.
Prättigauer Alp Spectacle
Summer milk from the high pastures is made into cheese both because the fresh grass gives it a preferred flavour as opposed to milk from winter silage, and because transporting all that milk down from the high pastures would be too expensive.
Switzerland is home to nearly 590,000 milking cows, many of which get to catch the summer sun in high mountain pastures, so there are a number of opportunities to see Désalpes / Alpabzug festivities. Here are some good ones taking place in the weeks to come:
Eastern Switzerland
In eastern Switzerland, cow and nature lovers are spoilt for choice. Here are three of the most popular events in the region. The video clips below will give you a taste of the bell bonging festivities.
Kerns Alpabfahrt – 28 September 2024
Far from the village you can hear the bells of the approaching herd. After four months in the mountains, the herder returns to the valley with his cows. For more information click here.
Engelberg Alpabfahrt – 11 October 2024
The farmers market is run by 30 local and regional vendors selling homemade products such as bread, cheese, jams, dried meat, tea, wine, brandy, wool and wood products. In addition, there are drinks raclette, crepes, sausages, and other mountain delicacies. For more information click here.
Prättigauer Alpabfahrt – 7 October 2024
As well as cows this event includes a market and cheese tasting and plenty of of activities for all ages. Much of the action takes place in Seewis. For more information click here.
This list is far from exhaustive. To find a local cow parade type “désalpe” or “alpabzug” and the name of your region into a search engine and see what comes up.
To read the full article with more upcoming “désalpe” or “alpabzug” events click here.
